Sometimes known as ‘Pensez à moi’ or ‘think of me’ brooches, this is a superb example of a rare George III to Regency period Romantic multi gemstone pansy flower brooch. The Romantic influence on Georgian culture cultivated a fascination for the natural world that spoke its own symbolic language. Albeit not a concept original to the Georgian age -associating the planets with certain human characteristics, for example, is a tradition of ancient Vedic culture- but it was during this period that the language of symbols embraced a powerful and dynamic role in everyday material culture: Jewellery became the vehicle by which emotional and romantic sentiment could be shared, at a time when social strictures prevented open expression.
This brooch is an eloquent example of how intensely personal messages could be read via the use of a symbolic motif set with meaningful gemstones.
The name Pansy derives from the French Pensee, meaning to think or ponder; and whilst Pansy symbols were given in friendship, the Georgians embraced it as a symbol of romantic love.
DESCRIPTION
Entirely hand wrought of rich, buttery yellow gold, the craftsmanship and detail is exceptional. The flower petals are of natural citrine and Spinel; the spinel are enhanced via closed back, foiled mounts, the result a beautiful blush pink that shifts between pale and deep shades in response to light. The citrines are of excellent colour and clarity: fully eye-clean, expertly cut and very high grade sunny yellow tones. The central stamen features a square cut emerald, whilst beneath another gemstone (possibly labradorite) represents a new bud, nestled amongst miniature versions of the luscious, naturalistic, textured and burnished gold leaves of the pansy flower, set upon long, delicate, organic tendrils, branching from the central stem. The petal mounts are finished with applied gold ball decorations, typical of the period beginning c1800. The stippled texture of the leaves, with their organic, curving shapes, and the delicate bend of the pansy stem creates a beautiful sense of life and movement, enhanced by the intense sparkle and fire of the wonderful, hand faceted stones as they capture, refract, and reflect light as it dances across the surface.