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GEORGIAN 18th CENTURY GILT AND GOLD EMERALD GREEN PASTE RIVIÈRE CHOKER NECKLACE
£8,995.00
HISTORY
This is an exceptionally exciting and rare, heavy 18th century paste rivière necklace, most likely English in origin and dating to the second half of the 18th century, circa 1770, very possibly older.
By the late 18th-19th century Rivière necklaces were lighter and typically set in gold or silver. Following the close of the Napoleonic Wars in 1813 -plus the discovery of new gem stone and precious metal mines across the world- high quality natural gemstones grew more abundant, and along with them, greater availability of the precious metals required for mounting.
The earliest rivière type necklaces originated in the early 18th century with the ‘Queen Anne’ style: gilt metal or silver mounted paste stones that were typically threaded on cord or velvet, until circa 1740-1750, when the method used in the creation of this rivière appeared.
The style was designed to place all emphasis on the stones, which were cut and foil mounted to sparkle like a river of rich, sultry lights around the throat. The closed back , pinched collet mounts characteristic of the period were ideal for this, each stone of descending size connected by only the most barely visible link, creating a necklace of exquisite, but simple beauty.
Today antique rivière necklaces are extraordinarily desirable due to their beauty and rarity, with original Georgian Rivière necklaces amongst the most scarce and collectable: their age, exquisite hand craftsmanship, singular one-of-a-kind uniqueness, and modern day wearability mean these rare jewels have maintained their popular appeal, and opportunities to own an authentic, 18th century rivière are nowadays increasingly rare.
30 HAND CUT, SILVER FOILED EMERALD GREEN PASTE STONES MOUNTED IN DOMED, CLOSED BACK PINCHED COLLET SETTINGS
EXCELLENT THROUGHOUT The colour and clarity of the stones is exquisite, with absolutely minimal wear, including to the rear foils. Condition is excellent. Age commensurate surface oxidation to the mount rears. This has occurred through great repeated contact with the oils in our skin, over many years, and is a testament to the rivière’s authenticity and it’s historic owners love of it. This is confined to the surfaces that touch the skin, so the gold remains bright on all the visible areas.
The principal stone is of a slightly different green and different cut; it is also set in high carat gold. I think it most likely this piece was added in from a different piece of jewellery, this is also 18th century, but later, closer to the turn of the 19th century: the characteristic manufacturing techniques, design, and the high carat of the gold used.
The necklace fastens with the characteristic hidden box clasp. For the rivière, even the clasp had to be disguised to maintain the illusion of a continuous circlet of light. The clasp is excellent: crisply and securely clicking shut, but easy to release by push and slide motion. The mounts and stones are all secure, the links correct.
DETAILS
Dimensions:
CLASPED LENGTH: 39cm
PRINCIPAL STONE:13x13x10mm
SHOULDER STONES: 2X 13x11x7mm
BOX CLASP: 9x8x6mm
Weight: 54.28g
Materials: GREEN PASTE/GILT METAL/
HIGH CARAT YELLOW GOLD
Origin: UK
Era: GEORGIAN
Original: YES
Handmade: YES