earrings, sold
17th Century Iberian Catalan Perpignan Foiled Garnet 18ct Gold Earrings Pre-Georgian
£1,900.00
DESCRIPTION
Condition is excellent throughout. Hand crafted in 18 carat (unmarked as is expected, but tested) rosy tinged yellow gold. As noted, the garnets are all faceted in the rose cut style, with flat backs: these foiled and securely set in domed, closed back collets with rub over mounts. The stones are excellent in every way: strong, clean and with intense internal fire; changing in colour according to the light quality, from a deep blood red through rich, bright scarlet, and in the brightest light, to an intensely concentrated, luminous deep pink. The stones are undamaged: the rear foils are perfectly intact with none of the spotting indicative of deterioration from the presence of damp or air. The only issue is some light dinging to the rear, and a minute split to the bottom edge of one earring.
Dimensions: FULL LENGTH: 4cm
GARNET DROP ONLY:-
Length: 1.6cm
Width: 1.3cm
Depth: 7mm
Materials: 18ct ROSY YELLOW GOLD/
PERPIGNAN GARNET
Origin: IBERIAN PENINSULA CATALONIA
Era: PRE-GEORGIAN – 17th CENTURY
(POSSIBLY VERY EARLY 18th
CENTURY
Original: YES
Handmade: YES
Here are a pair of extraordinarily beautiful, exquisite quality and very rare early Catalan earrings dating to the 17th century (I bought them as such, and I believe this is accurate based upon my detailed research -studying pre Victorian jewellery is my primary passion and interest- but as I am not an expert it is important to include the possibility of the early 18th century) and originate from the Catalonian region of the Iberian Peninsula. The historical origin of the earrings and quality, colour and characteristics of the Garnets, indicate they were mined locally at Perpignan.
The garnets are simply but skilfully cut by hand, without use of machine, and the use of large, bright foiled garnets with this triangular faceting or ‘rose cutting ‘ across a domed face with a flat back, is characteristic of 17th and 18th century Catalan design.
Perpignan garnet, native to that area, was highly prized for its intense colouration, and is known to have been mined from the 11th century onwards. Perpignan garnet grew in popularity during the 17th century, then in the mid 18th century it’s status became further elevated as a symbol of wealth and prestige, and from there the jewellery featuring it (including the local croix badine) became much more elaborate. Consequently from circa 1750 Catalan earrings and pendants grew much heavier and longer with multiple hinged drops.
These earlier earrings are of elegant and simple design, making the luscious large, flawless garnet gemstones the central focus, and are far more wearable than those that were produced from the mid 18th to early 19th centuries, which can be in excess of 4 inches in length.