ring, sold
Stunning and very rare mid Victorian 18 carat gold Hairwork filled engraved tubular wrap around ring, set with 11 cabochon natural turquoise in the shape of a Forget Me Not flower head
£1,995.00
CONDITION REPORT
Extremely good antique condition.
The ring shank is tubular, beautifully hand engraved decoration gives way to open panels through which the plaited hair of the ring wearers loved one can be glimpsed. Raw hair was subject to numerous processes to strengthen and preserve it for use in jewellery, particularly when the design meant the hair was not to be protected behind a glass panel, but subject to daily wear and tear, such as here. The processed hair remains in good, intact condition within the ring shank. The shank itself remains perfectly in the round. As can be seen from the images, there is expected light, age commensurate wear, but the ring is in immediately wearable condition. There are no indications of repair, no losses or replacements. The turquoises are secure and original, the only minor injury to note is a minor ding to the shank rear.
Size:- UK P
US 8
EU 57 (FR. & GER.)
Weight:- 2.85g
Materials:- 18 CARAT YELLOW GOLD/ NATURAL PERSIAN TURQUOISE/ HAIRWORK
Origin:- UK
Antique:- YES
Era:- MID VICTORIAN c1860
Handmade:- YES
Stunning and very rare mid Victorian 18 carat gold Hairwork filled engraved tubular wrap around ring, set with 11 cabochon natural turquoise in the shape of a Forget Me Not flower head, stem and leaves in secure rub over collet mounts. Dating circa 1860s this ring has been handmade to personal order, it is therefore unique, and not being factory produced lacks gold weight stamping/hallmarks (introduced in 1854) it is however tested and guaranteed 18 carat gold.
Jewellery containing hair of parted loved ones, and especially after the death of Prince Albert, the hair of the mourned deceased, was an extremely popular hangover from the Georgian period, and propelled further by Queen Victoria-a powerfully influential trend setter- even after Albert’s death, when she assumed deep mourning . Continuing on the Romantic, sentimental Georgian passion for symbolism, certain images and motifs were repeatedly used as meaningful shorthand: the Forget Me Not flower, particularly picked out in cabochon turquoise, had, since the early 19th century been used to represent Living lovers parted by circumstance (such as travel, or war) and lovers parted forever, in death. Whilst this ring, coming a few decades after may also have represented a parting gift, by this stage hair tributes were more closely associated with mourning and memorial.