The Maltese Cross is an ancient symbol dating back to the Crusades, but began to appear in British jewellery c1790, in response to the Napoleonic Wars: the French occupied the strategic island of Malta, and when the populace rose up, the British saw an opportunity to create a military blockade. At home, people began to wear versions of the Maltese Cross in support of the Maltese versus French oppression, until the fashion died out c1830, to be revived later in the Victorian period.
Georgian Maltese Crosses were typically forged using gold and gemstones, and particularly in pendant and brooch form. At the time this stunning pendant was made, substantial, high quality gemstones of good clarity, excellent colour saturation and depth (unlike the flat, sliver cuts of earlier in the period) were coming to be set in open backed pinched collet settings, such as with the 5 largest purple amethyst stones here. All 5 of these natural gems are superbly colour matched and expertly hand cut; and supported with 4 amethyst accents, themselves set in foiled, closed back crimped collet mounts. In the Georgian period, before the discovery of further mines, amethyst was considered a Cardinal gem, along with Diamond Ruby Sapphire and Emerald, and thus was extremely valuable and desirable throughout the Georgian to Victorian age. It’s scarcity and beauty cemented it’s status as a gemstone for the wealthiest only, this explaining the proliferation of purple paste jewellery from the 18th century to early Victorian period.





